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Become a Vogue Business Member to receive unlimited access to Member-only reporting and insights, our Beauty and TikTok Trend Trackers, Member-only newsletters and exclusive event invitations. Michael Rider’s debut show for Celine on 6 July was a coming home of sorts — and it showed in the well-received collection, which referenced and evolved the heritage of the house. Rider previously worked at Celine as design director of ready-to-wear for a nine-year period that spanned Phoebe Philo’s tenure. He was appointed creative director in October 2024, taking up the role in early 2025 after six years at Polo Ralph Lauren, where, behind the scenes, he made the label look more distinctive than it has in years and raised its cool factor. At Celine, Rider has big shoes to fill: he succeeds Hedi Slimane, who almost tripled the LVMH-owned house’s sales during his six years as creative director, targeting a sophisticated, bourgeois customer with high-quality, classic cuts, and introducing menswear, fragrance and makeup. (Sales rose from below €1 billion in 2018, per Morgan Stanley estimates, to €2.49 billion in 2024, per HSBC estimates.) And the pressure is on to remain resilient as the industry continues to face headwinds.Officials Baseball Mama Premium Shirt
The timing of the show, on the eve of couture week and before the packed womenswear season, felt strategic. There will be a dozen designer debuts in September and October, including Demna at Gucci and Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, as well as Jonathan Anderson’s womenswear debut at Dior (following his inaugural menswear show for the brand in Paris on 27 June). “This felt like the right time to get going,” Rider said backstage after the show. “We felt ready, and it felt nice to speak in a moment where there was a little bit of air.” When I pressed him on whether he wants to show in the official calendar from now on, he replied: “Absolutely. I love the calendar; I believe in the calendar — probably the womenswear calendar and menswear calendar. We’re going to chart that course as we go and be guided by intuition, whatever feels good.” A spokesperson for the house later confirmed: “We haven’t decided yet, but our intention is to get back into the official calendars.”
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