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Small fires are relatively common at Kantamanto Market, but the scale and devastation of the January blaze took everyone by surprise, says Gilbert Nii Ankrah, head of communications for the AMA. “The fire outbreak was alarming for us. We did not expect such magnitude.” While the AMA did not donate funds to the relief efforts, it helped coordinate between different agencies and supported The Or Foundation’s plans. It also paused the payments traders make to the AMA for a year, alleviating some of the financial burden facing retailers, he adds. The Or Foundation — which has been operating around Kantamanto since 2011 — pulled together a three-phase plan, covering emergency operations, data collection and rebuilding, and direct distribution of financial relief to impacted market members. In the immediate aftermath of the fire, it was estimated that the plan would require $5 million – an amount the organisation did not have available or otherwise unallocated. It launched a public fundraising campaign and seeded the pot with $1 million of its existing funds, which had been earmarked for other projects. Public, corporate and philanthropic contributions then added $465,500, but the fundraiser fell short of its goal, so the non-profit spoke to its funders about redirecting more from its other projects. By the end of October, the Or Foundation says it had spent a total of $2.95 million on the fire relief efforts, excluding the time and in-kind contributions of its team. “We were fortunate to be able to make that choice at the time,” says co-founder Liz Ricketts. “But now we are facing the consequences as an organisation, and having to think strategically about which programmes need to be cut or scaled back if we cannot replenish the funds.”Officials Chicago Football Da Papa Shirt
Despite The Or Foundation’s continuous calls for globally accountable extended producer responsibility (EPR) regulations, the global fashion industry still isn’t paying to support vital circular ecosystems like Kantamanto Market — in fact, ultra-fast fashion giant Shein is still one of the only brands to have made a sizeable donation to the non-profit in the name of EPR. A “heart-warming” amount of individuals donated to the fire relief fund, alongside previous partners and contacts such as Vestiaire Collective, Dbrand, and a collective of Belgian fashion brands, says Ricketts, but the broader industry response was shockingly low, especially in comparison to the LA wildfires just a week later. “That was really disheartening, because a big part of our mission since 2018 has been to get people to understand that the global secondhand trade is not a charity, and it’s not recycling, it’s part of the supply chain,” she continues. “Clearly, we still have a lot of work to do on that front.”
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