Stitch Taking A Sick Day Cause Im Sick Of You People Circle Shirt
Cardini also notes emerging brand Durazzi, which presented on schedule for the second time this season, this time constructing a fake recording studio in its Milan HQ, with musicians wearing the collection as they performed. Maino also highlighted Florania, the independent genderless brand founded by stylist and illustrator Flora Rabitti, and local knitwear collective Pecoranera as ones to watch. “It’s the first time in a long time that we have [a few] designers in Milan who are worthy of attention, with shows that commanded press presence and buyer presence,” Cardini says. Closing out the week, emerging designer Avavav continued with her clever show concepts, while unveiling some pieces from her ongoing collaboration with Adidas. This time, models rose from the dead, clawing through a grave and emerging from beneath (reflecting a difficult time the designer has been experiencing with her health). “We spent months looking for a location where this was actually possible to build without it costing a huge amount of money,” she says, “finally we pulled it off.” Also on Sunday, Chinese designer Susan Fang made her Milan debut after cancelling last season, as the latest designer to show as part of the Dolce & Gabbana Supported By scheme, following Tomo Koizumi (AW23), Karoline Vitto (SS24) and Feben (AW24). Backstage after the show, she thanked Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana for allowing her to use their atelier to develop new categories like denim and tailoring.Stitch Taking A Sick Day Cause Im Sick Of You People Circle Shirt
While Milan is never short on glamour from mainstays like Versace and Dolce & Gabbana, many brands leaned into heavy embellishments, sequins and bold prints for AW25, as fashion continues to swing back to maximalism and houses add fun accessories, to imbue collections with a sense of personal style. Even more classic labels experimented with proportion or accessories. “There’s a kind of rich minimalism in Milan today,” Cardini says. “Wearability is never plain.” She notes Bally, where the front of some garments was minimal tailoring, but from the back there featured a shock of coloured fur. “There’s an instinctual part that makes minimalism less flat.” Elsewhere, we saw all-out maximalism take hold. Heavy duty jewel embellishments at Fendi; sparkly tweeds and plaids at Missoni and sequin bob caps and vests at Simone Bellotti’s Bally. Fur (mainly faux fur) also continues to dominate, with exaggerated fur stoles skimming the floor at Fendi and Blumarine, fur trims at Marni and Bally, and XXL fur accessories at Diesel, Etro and Dolce & Gabbana. At masters of maximalism Dolce & Gabbana’s show, entitled ‘cool girl’, models walked out of the show venue onto a runway on the street, to screaming crowds, while Victoria De Angelis of Italian band Måneskin DJed heavy techno. The collection started off casual, with denim and beanies (albeit embellished) but like AW25 men’s, quickly morphed into bejewelled eveningwear, full of crystals and tassels. A similar vibe was felt at Dsquared2, where pieces ranged from double denim and suiting to bejewelled or thong bodysuits, as seen on Amelia Gray and Naomi Campbell.
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