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Then came Raul Lopez of Luar, whose “snatched, sexy nun” knit dress came with a cut-out wimple that had the judges audibly gasping: “molto bello,” Versace observed. As well as showing beautifully elaborate and autobiographical hand-made garments—what he called “the cuckoo-crazy pieces”—Lopez also presented “wool base layers for the Lululemon girls.” Members of the International Woolmark Prize jury (from left to right) Tim Blanks, Woolmark CEO John Roberts, Danielle Goldberg, Simone Marchetti, Honey Dijon, Sinéad Burke, Donatella Versace, IB Kamara, Roopal Patel, Alessandro Dell’Acqua, and Alessandro Sartorti. Marc Jacobs and Dries Van Noten alum Meryll Rogge delivered a compelling case for herself during a presentation that spelled out both the pitfalls and promise of building an independent brand. Wool garments generate about 30% of her revenues, and following her most recent show she said she is enjoying a relatively strong selling season. Yet her really excellent brand has yet quite to ignite (despite powerfully deserving to): you could see how transformational a catalyst winning Woolmark might prove. Michael Stewart of Standing Ground is a designer whose precise exactitude is matched by his power of expression. His couture-level wool gowns, with their architecture of hand-embedded beading and wool-felt insulated corsetry, left Zegna’s self-confessed materials geek Alessandro Sartori especially entranced.Official Anti Trump For Three Day Yesterday Today Tmorrow Shirt
Fashion is very much about the intersection of aesthetic and moment—and in this moment, Lantink’s aesthetic has shaped up as a powerful signifier of now. When it was his turn to present (he was second in line) he told us: “I’ve always been very obsessive about clothes. As a young child, I would sneak up into my mom’s room and I would start stealing her clothes and cutting them up and experimenting.” The Dutchman had used his grant from Woolmark to create garments that were incorporated in his fall 2025 collection Duranimal, including the eye-defying “floating” check wool skirt and some radical exoskeleton dresses knit in wool by a group of traditional Dutch knitters based in Amsterdam. “I’m really about shape, and forms, and trying to create new ideas,” he said.
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