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Sometimes it can be explained in as straightforward a matter as concentration, like with Guerlain’s Shalimar perfume, for example. “It’s the same fragrance in extrait and eau de toilette, exactly like it was,” says Jelk of the first ambery perfume created a century ago. Guerlain’s L’Art & La Matière signature extracts that she created a few years ago highlight the raw materials within each fragrance, including rose, iris, bergamot, vanilla, jasmine, and tonka bean in scents with 30%-extrait-level concentrations. Since intense is a flexible term in the fragrance world, Mugler’s rule of thumb for strength states that “an eau de toilette is formulated with 7 to 12% perfume or perfume oil, an eau de parfum has 10 to 14%, and an eau de parfum Intense contains 14 to 25%.” Their new Alien ExtraIntense Eau de Parfum offers an “extra-amplified version” of the original Alien scent with “excessive florality” in “extra-powerful solar flowers” top notes and “jasmine grandiflorum superinfusion” heart notes. Flowers inspired the lightest eau de colognes, which have hovered around 4 to 5% since debuting in the 16th century as a “healthy gesture” when bathing was rare, Jelk explains. Alcohol and antiseptic ingredients like lavender and rosewater were chosen to help ward off illness. Plus it smelled good, so once perfumery became “more luxurious, more modern,” concentrations leveled up.Texans Houston Outfit With Charlie Brown And Snoopy Of Peanuts Shirt
Still, “the quality of a fragrance cannot be judged by its strength,” Nagel insists. “When I decided to work on a more intense Terre d’Hermès, I went against this heavy-handed trend for higher concentrations by looking for strength in its signature rather than a powerful scent.” The new Terre d’Hermès Eau de Parfum Intense launched last month, and as Nagel created it, she asked the question: What fascinates me about the earth? Her answer was volcanoes and “an earth under which a fire smolders. An earth that is darker but warmer, more fiery, more intense, but I also wanted to explore a more intimate, more intense side of mankind, one that expresses the inner fire that drives him.” There are “mineral notes of intense lava stone” that are entirely new, since when playing with intensity, “it is not enough to simply add more and more high-potential raw materials,” she states.
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