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“Supplier prices are high, even compared to Italy and other European countries,” says Ashley Long, CEO of British brand Paul Smith, which makes some of its range in the UK, though the company declines to provide the exact percentage. “But where a lot of European businesses benefit from government assistance, from grants to concessions that support manufacturing, we don’t benefit from this in the UK.” There are a number of other obstacles to scaling up UK production, not least the disruption to retail. When Matches collapsed just over a year ago, it owed unsecured creditors — namely brands and manufacturers — more than £35.6 million, most of which was never repaid. Many of its e-commerce peers have struggled, too, while the removal of VAT-free shopping has hindered growth for bricks-and-mortar stores, especially in London’s West End, where luxury shopping is concentrated. At the mass end of the market, the British high street has been decimated by the availability of cheap fast fashion online. “The challenges in UK retail have hit manufacturing hard,” says Hills. “If people aren’t selling as many products, they’re not going to make as many products.”Snoopy Insane Is Such A Mean Word I Prefer Mentally Creative Shirt
While most in the industry agree that greater government involvement could significantly boost ‘Made in the UK’ fashion, not many are holding their breath. Across party lines, UK legislators have shown little interest in rallying the fashion industry, and the sparse examples of government investment show a fractured vision for what rebuilding would look like. One faction is pushing for the UK to set itself apart through circular and sustainable innovations. For example, in August 2023, non-departmental public body UK Research and Innovation (UKRI) invested £6 million to help the fashion and textile industry adopt sustainable and responsible practices. Using some of that funding, the UKFT and British Fashion Council (BFC) now co-chair the Circular Fashion Innovation Network, which promotes sustainable manufacturing and circular business models. (The BFC also leads the government-backed Low Carbon Transition Programme, which supports UK-based fashion SMEs to decarbonise, among other initiatives more targeted at the design side of the industry.)
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