Officials Win Or Lose San Francisco 49Ers Forever Shirt
Håkansson worries that brands swapping fur for other animal products are missing an opportunity to rethink fashion’s value system. There are plenty of examples of this already, she says. London-based designer Roksanda Ilinčić has used raffia grass to achieve a similar amount of movement and volume to fur while avoiding faux iterations, and Ukrainian designer Ksenia Schnaider has opted for frayed upcycled denim to similar ends. “Ideally, we would take the sentiment [behind banning fur] and use our creativity to move somewhere genuinely responsible that has no animal exploitation at all,” says Håkansson. The innovations brands are most excited by are the ones which are both plastic-free and plant-based. Some have already made their way onto runways, co-signed by brands that are known for their sustainability practices. In Paris, Copenhagen export Ganni used a recycled polyester alternative from global faux fur textile manufacturer Ecopel, while Stella McCartney opted for Savian, a vegan and plastic-free alternative made from nettle, hemp and flax by French American biomaterials startup Biofluff.Officials Win Or Lose San Francisco 49Ers Forever Shirt
Most fur alternatives are either plant-based or plastic-free, notes Biofluff co-founder and chief commercial officer Roni Gamzon. It’s difficult to have both and maintain the performance and quality expectations of luxury fashion, especially without the vocal and financial support of brands. Biofluff says it has found a workaround by using lower impact plant-based materials like nettle, hemp and flax, which are widely available across Europe. Others offer stop-gap solutions while they develop something better. Faux fur atelier Ecopel’s first attempt at a bio-based fur was Koba, which launched in 2019, made from 37 per cent corn-based ingredients and 63 per cent recycled polyester. Another iteration, dubbed Gacha, was a modified polyester, designed to be commercially compostable in 180 days, but was discontinued due to lack of demand. “Brands preferred our recycled options because they were more advanced and had a better hand feel,” says Ecopel communication and sustainability manager Arnaud Brunois. “Sometimes, innovations are too technical for designers to understand.”
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