Officials End The Glasspiracy Shirt
Navygrey is another brand championing British wool. In an era where synthetic fibres dominate, founder Rachel Carvell-Spedding set out to challenge assumptions and show that British wool can be a premium material in its own right. “We like the wool having a bit of grit, we don’t want to shy away from that. We’re not trying to say it’s like cashmere, because we love the feeling of wool.” Through experimentation and collaboration with British Wool — the central marketing board for UK sheep farmers — she’s developed bespoke blends like Scottish Cheviot mixed with Bluefaced Leicester, and sees opportunity in tapping underused coarse breeds, especially as Navygrey grows and invests more in R&D. (Similarly, in Kent, farmers are experimenting with cross-breeding the Romney to reduce its micron count.)Officials End The Glasspiracy Shirt
Building this kind of brand comes with challenges. British wool, when processed entirely within the UK, is expensive — not because brands are profiteering, but because ethical, domestic manufacturing carries costs. There’s a perception gap, Carvell-Spedding notes, between what customers think a wool jumper should cost and what it actually costs to produce one responsibly. “If we wanted to make a huge profit, we would have to double the price of our jumpers, but we are not going to do that because we want it to be commercially successful.” Maria Benjamin and her partner John Atkinson launched Lake District Tweed as part of a farm diversification project in 2021. They work with over 20 farmers in the Lake District area of northern England to source fleeces that would otherwise be burned or discarded, transforming them into tweed, throws and knitwear, with unique patterns inspired by the farms’ locations. The aim is to emulate provenance-based models like single-origin coffee or whisky: “We don’t have an awful lot of British wool, but we can really increase the value of it,” explains Benjamin over homemade lemon drizzle cake, served at the kitchen table in their farm in Ulverston.
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