Officials Heres The Thing Fck Everyone Deer Heart Shirt
Efforts are also underway to rebuild the wool supply chain. The UK has a rich history of sheep farming and wool production: Scotland’s Harris Tweed is globally protected by law and handwoven by islanders in the Outer Hebrides, while Yorkshire mills like Abraham Moon produce world-class worsted suiting fabrics. However, while the UK is home to over 70 sheep breeds — more than any other country in the world — British wool makes up just a sliver (1 per cent) of the global wool market. Most of that is used for floor coverings and insulation. Today, British farmers often receive less money for wool than it costs to shear, making it a byproduct rather than a valuable commodity. Yorkshire-based farmer John Mason currently has around 650 Swaledale sheep in his flock, and 25 Bluefaced Leicesters. Over the last decade or so, he has bred the Swaledales to produce less wool in response to the changing market, where shearing costs around £1.50 per sheep, and the wool sells for just 25 pence per kilo. “Before my time, the wool cheque would pay the rent on the farm,” he says. “Now, it doesn’t even cover the cost of shearing.”Officials Heres The Thing Fck Everyone Deer Heart Shirt
Yorkshire-based farmer John Mason and one of his Bluefaced Leicester sheep, pictured during lambing season. Mason supplies wool to British knitwear brand Herd, which has made traceable materials central to its storytelling. As in leather, a growing network of brands and experts believe there is scope to innovate, re-educate consumers, and scale up the use of British wool for fashion. Among them is Ruth Alice Rands, founder of knitwear brand Herd, who has built her business around traceable British wool, absorbing the risks of processing losses to guarantee a return for farmers, while telling romantic stories about the Bluefaced Leicester, a breed she calls “the Romeo of the sheep world”. The fibre from the Bluefaced Leicester’s fleece has a diameter of around 26 micron, which makes it the closest the UK has to the fine fibres from Merinos (ranging from 11.5-24 micron), and results in a soft yarn more suited to apparel. Herd pays around £7 per kilo of Bluefaced Leicester to farmers like Mason, which can amount to as much as £11 per fleece. Still, the income is only a “nice bonus”, says Mason, who points out that they’re “not the hardiest of sheep”, making it hard to maintain large flocks. (At her collaboration launch with Herd last year, stylist Bay Garnett described the breed as being “famous for fucking and fainting”.) Herd founder Ruth Alice Rands has established a set price for Bluefaced Leicester wool, hoping to create more value for farmers and position British wool as a luxury product.
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