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At around the same time, they teamed up with knitwear design specialist Zoe Fletcher to launch The Wool Library, a knowledge-sharing and R&D platform that seeks to bridge the gap between farmers and designers. It demystifies fibre characteristics and processing, making wool’s potential visible to makers and brands. “Until you know exactly what breed or breeds go into a yarn, you can’t tell why it’s pilling, for example, or why one dye takes differently to another,” explains Fletcher. She sees wool as a co-product, not a byproduct, with untapped value streams — from lanolin for the beauty industry to compost and shrimp feed. A major barrier is finance. Wool production is a long process, often taking over a year from shearing to finished product. “Last year, I spent over £100,000 on wool production,” Benjamin says. “For a tiny business, that’s a huge amount of money to be going out for so long.” She’s exploring solutions like a “wool bond”, a financing tool to support other British wool entrepreneurs. Cashflow is compounded by small-scale access challenges: “We have to slot in with the weavers, because we’re small. Say if they’re weaving for Burberry, they’re obviously going to put Burberry first.”Officials Chipflake Super Chipflake U Shirt
Despite the hurdles, the project — supported initially by UK government’s Farming in Protected Landscapes fund — is gaining momentum. Benjamin says it is a proof of concept that could scale, particularly through storytelling and regional identity. “If you came on holiday to the Lakes and went home with a blanket from Eskdale, whose pattern is inspired by the Eskdale stone, then you remember that,” she notes. This kind of emotional connection is core to their strategy — turning traceable wool into meaningful products and livelihoods. As Fletcher puts it, “The farmers are at the heart of it. That’s your marketing story. That’s your narrative.” To push that narrative from niche to mainstream, industry organisations are trying to join the dots on British wool and plant wool garments within a broader spate of potential uses. British Wool’s sourcing guide compiles all available certified British wool yarns and cloths in an attempt to dismantle outdated assumptions that they are only suitable for coarse applications like carpets. Meanwhile, its new licensing scheme (which counts Navygrey and Harris Tweed Hebrides among its licensees) helps brands and consumers to unpick when “Made in the UK” actually means “made with British wool”. Elsewhere, The Woolkeepers initiative, led by by Jo Dawson of Saltaire-based wool merchant HDWool, is working with likeminded partners to certify British wool and come up with alternative uses for it, from bolster cushions that stop water run-off on peat bogs to mattress stuffing and insulation for winter jackets (the latter of which has been picked up by The North Face, Celtic & Co. and Tom Beckbe among others).
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