Officials Brian Posehn Brian Bonez Shirt

Officials Brian Posehn Brian Bonez Shirt

Jo Dawson of HDWool and The Woolkeepers (left) is working with Herd to create a fully traceable and certified regenerative wool supply chain in the UK. Part of that supply chain is Haworth Scouring (right), a textile mill in the north of England. Complementing these efforts is the Great British Wool Revival, a mapping and storytelling project led by think tank Fashion Roundtable and funded by Yoox Net-a-Porter, which spotlights the remaining mills, spinners and artisans working with British wool. By rebuilding relationships across the value chain, it’s helping brands and designers find — and use — what’s still here. While a growing faction is focused on promoting the qualities of British wool, a handful of pioneers are experimenting with breeds and systems that could support homegrown fine fibres for fashion. They posit that it could be possible to breed Merino sheep and cashmere goats in the UK, either for direct use or to breed or blend with coarser fibres from native species. A stone’s throw from Herd’s countryside base in Gloucestershire lies Daylesford Organic, the sprawling country estate founded by Carole Bamford in 2002, which now houses a renowned farm shop and restaurant, an organic farm, a wellness centre, private members’ club, and her lifestyle brand Bamford. Two years ago, Bamford stumbled across an estimate that the average supply chain for Merino wool — a staple in (the brand) Bamford’s luxury womenswear collections — was over 18,000 miles. “We already had the farming experience to care for sheep at Daylesford, and relationships with some of the best wool artisans in Britain,” she says. “I thought, why not keep Merinos?”Officials Brian Posehn Brian Bonez Shirt

The Daylesford Organic farm in the Cotswolds recently added Saxon-Merino sheep to its flock. On the left, director of marketing Matt Gorman holds one of the new lambs during a farm tour. The wool is used in founder Carole Bamford’s eponymous lifestyle brand, Bamford. The UK isn’t known for Merino sheep, and with good reason. They are far more at home in the dry climates of Australia and New Zealand than lush English pastures. But Bamford managed to track down a breed called Saxon Merino, which was introduced to England by the Romans, and copes better with rich grass, while still producing the fine, soft wool Merino is famed for. The flock that started with 10 ewes now stands at around 120. But it’s not without challenges. Getting the right yield can take time — for its second Merino collection, launching this September, Bamford will combine the Saxon Merino with Bluefaced Leicester. “This will ensure that we meet the staple length that artisans require to spin the yarn within the UK,” explains Bamford. “All of the wool will be processed and spun in Cornwall, then knitted on the Isle of Man and in Nottingham.”

Officials Brian Posehn Brian Bonez Shirt

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