Officials Boston Bruins With Zdeno Chara 2006 2020 Logo Shirt
A similar story is playing out in cashmere. Scotland is known for its cashmere production, but the fibres are typically imported from China and Mongolia, where extremely cold winters force the goats to develop a fine, insulating undercoat to survive. In the 1990s, a government-backed cooperative examined the fibre yield potential of Scottish cashmere; however, the project fizzled out due to a lack of market demand and subsidies. The team behind Lunan Bay Farm in Scotland believe conditions have changed. “With climate change, Mongolia is seeing some of the heaviest rainfall year on year, leading to more frequent flooding,” explains Jillian McEwan, director of Lunan Bay. “In China, cashmere production’s been industrialised, and that comes with environmental and human welfare issues. So I think the timing’s more appropriate for establishing a homegrown supply of cashmere.” She notes that there’s also much greater awareness of these issues among consumers, brands and regulators now.Officials Boston Bruins With Zdeno Chara 2006 2020 Logo Shirt
Three years ago, Lunan Bay began producing traceable, regenerative, Scottish-grown cashmere in partnership with Scottish mill Johnstons of Elgin and the University of Edinburgh Business School. It’s early days, but McEwan says the initial findings are promising. Trials show that Scottish-raised goats produce fibre of comparable quality to Mongolian/Chinese cashmere (Grade A = <15.5 micron). The project proves that the climate and terrain are suitable, and the goats thrive even in rugged Highland conditions. Plus, goat rearing could bring regenerative agriculture benefits: they eat invasive plants and enhance biodiversity and soil health. Lunan Bay is working with agricultural research facility The James Hutton Institute on measuring the benefits to the land. The idea is to then make a business case to other local farmers. Each goat yields just 100–200g of usable cashmere per year, meaning meaningful production requires collaboration between multiple farms. “We buy around 250 tonnes of cashmere a year, so Mongolia and China are going to continue to be important,” says Chris Gaffney, CEO of Johnstons. “But we like the idea of having regenerative cashmere from Scotland, based upon the principle that the goats clear the ground for the sheep.”
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