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Become a Vogue Business Member to receive unlimited access to Member-only reporting and insights, our Beauty and TikTok Trend Trackers, Member-only newsletters and exclusive event invitations. The news is out: Grace Wales Bonner has been named Hermès’s new creative director of menswear. In an era where every appointment is scrutinised for what it means for the market, the brand and culture, Hermès has made a bold move, shifting its creative leadership for the menswear division for the first time in almost four decades and becoming the first major European fashion house to appoint a Black woman to the role. Wales Bonner, who built her namesake label around cultural storytelling and meticulously crafted tailoring, will present her debut collection in January 2027. The industry is already weighing in on what this means: a generational handover and a potential recalibration of Hermès’s brand codes. Elektra Kotsoni: How fab is the news of Grace Wales Bonner’s appointment at Hermès! So good to have an appointment everyone seems to get behind. And she doesn’t have to show until January 2027? She’s going to need the time to really get into the archive. It’s also great to see another luxury brand get off the hamster wheel and give their creatives time… Is that true luxury?Grinch Santa Got You Some Jumper Cables Since You Like To Start Shit Christmas Shirt
Laure Guilbault: This reminds me of how Chanel gave time to artistic director Matthieu Blazy: he presented his debut show nine months after the announcement of his appointment. And it paid off. Hermès will skip Paris Men’s Week in June, and the SS27 collection, which will be created by the studio, will probably be presented as a presentation or a lookbook. Hermès doesn’t give in to haste (nor trends). What does it mean for Hermès to have a buzzier name at the helm? At Hermès, there’s no single creative director. Pierre-Alexis Dumas is the general artistic director, while Nadège Vanhee is in charge of womenswear, Pierre Hardy shoes, jewellery and objects of beauty. Hermès has no overinflated ego, the house is the star. It’s about juggling very specific codes that have been established for decades and maintaining consistency in the highest regard for quality. I spoke to Stéphane Wargnier, Hermès’s former head of communications, in January and he said: “Even when Martin Margiela and Jean Paul Gaultier were at the creative helm of Hermès, their designs were more Hermès than Hermès.” I expect Grace Wales Bonner to be part of that lineage.
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