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Creative transitions were on the agenda for both LVMH and Kering this earnings season. LVMH’s Arnault even used the AGM as a platform to announce that the next Dior Men show in June will be designed by Jonathan Anderson (confirming his appointment as artistic director of the maison’s menswear). The group is also awaiting the debut of Michael Rider at Celine and of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at Loewe. At Kering, all eyes will be on the debut of Demna at Gucci in September and of Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, while a new creative director at Balenciaga will be appointed “in due course”, Bellettini said. “ The person we are searching is a high calibre who can build on what has been already very well done at the brand, continue the success and continue to develop it.” Versace tapped Dario Vitale as chief creative officer in March and Spanish group Puig announced the appointment of Duran Lantink as Jean Paul Gaultier’s permanent creative director on 15 April.Love Minnesota Outline Shirt
Creative transitions come with challenges. “Change is great, it grabs the headlines, but when a new creative director arrives, the impact takes 12 to 15 months,” Rambourg says. (Loewe, which has been in the news with the departure of Anderson and the nomination of McCollough and Hernandez both in March, ranked first in the Lyst Index of the hottest brands in the first quarter.) Fashion executives are seeking to minimise the disruption. Bellettini said: “When are you going to see the first hint of Demna’s creative vision for Gucci? In September, but in terms of products arriving in the stores, we are working all together to bring novelty.” More newness will be introduced, she said, as the brand accelerates how quickly it can get products to market. “Therefore you don’t have to wait until 2026 to see some of those products. But also we are not waiting at Gucci to have Demna or not-Demna products. We’re going to have novelties, progressively arriving at the stores and we keep on working also the revamping of our carryovers.”
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