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For Miller, part of the joy of curating “Superfine” with the Costume Institute’s longtime head curator, Andrew Bolton, was weaving broadly familiar names into a surprising new context—namely, a cultural history of Black style. Take, for instance, the final of the exhibition’s 12 themed sections, Cosmopolitanism, for which the philosopher Frantz Fanon provides the epigraph: “In the world in which I travel, I am endlessly creating myself.” “Fanon had a lot to say about Blackness as a mask,” Miller tells Vogue. “He had a lot to say about surface and interiority, about the psychology of how people encounter Blackness, and the way Black people are projected into the social, cultural, and political world. He was doing that work—but I don’t think people expect to see him here. Whereas someone like Miles Davis, who we quote in another section, had a lot to say about being cool. Or Frederick Douglass, who had a lot to say about respectability, in really fascinating ways.”Official I Love Jesus And Broccoli Shirt
Hurston, meanwhile, is a writer that Miller—a professor at Barnard College—teaches all the time (and not only because Hurston was Barnard’s first Black alumna). Her “eclectic” work as an anthropologist and folklorist complements an exhibition that, as Miller puts it, is “not interested in defining Black dandyism definitively” but rather in “offering different avenues, different entry points” for exploring the politics of Black dress. In that spirit, ahead of the show’s May 10 opening, use the (abundant!) reading list below, supplied by Miller, as a sort of “Superfine” springboard—or, if you like, as a primer for the wonderfully teeming catalog. Have a browse, get suitably inspired, and we’ll see you at the museum very soon.
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