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Talley—who Anna Wintour recently described as “a dandy among dandies”—is one of many characters throughout history that people this exhibition. Others are the abolitionist Frederick Douglass, Prince, and the artist Iké Udé. Add to this list the Black designers featured in the show who are changing the landscape of contemporary menswear. Women like Grace Wales Bonner and Bianca Saunders, and men including Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton menswear, Willy Chavarria, and Raul Lopez of Luar, all of whom approach tailoring with a fresh eye. Men and suits, suits and power: This is a concept that reaches back in time to the “great renunciation” of the late 18th century, when in WASP societies, masculine peacockery was put aside in favor of a kind of penitent Puritanism that took the form of a dark-hued suit, which became, says Miller, “associated with whiteness.” In this scenario, the suit is a container or exoskeleton that covers or masks the body. In contrast, Miller is interested in the body that wears the clothing, and how clothing is a way to define selfhood and the body. A good example of this is IB Kamara for Off-White’s his-and-hers suits with anatomical embroidery.Officials I Love Caleb Williams Heart Chicago Bears Shirt
Discipline is a core tenet of dandyism, and while Black dandies certainly took advantage of fashion’s reveal/conceal binary, the garments on display repudiate any idea of renunciation. In fact, explains Miller, “it’s sort of like, let’s take this symbol of white masculine power and just really deconstruct, reconstruct, add on, take away, put it in another fabric—just really, really mess with it.” This is well illustrated by a suit in the show that appears to be in the process of becoming by Who Decides War’s Ev Bravado and Téla D’Amore. Then there is the sinuous lavishness of the zoot suit that emerged from Harlem in the 1940s. In its head-on consideration of race and gender, “Superfine” is a groundbreaking exhibition—and a celebratory one. At the same time, it relates to Bolton’s mission to reframe fashion as a tool for life. In “In America: A Lexicon of Style” (2021), the curator created a taxonomy of emotions attached to clothing in the context of nationality and locality. Last year’s “Sleeping Beauties” considered the sensory aspects (sounds, smells) of garments as objects and keepers of history. “Superfine” delivers the prince who kisses the public awake to Black excellence as it is variously expressed in the exhibition’s 12 subthemes, which include respectability and distinction and beauty.
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