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Romans are masters of the profane and irreverent banter. Pasolini, Moravia, Manganelli, Flaiano—all wrote about this specific ethos: the ability to laugh at everything, even death, and to never be surprised, not even by the most seismic shifts. Pasolini, in particular, was drawn to Rome’s split soul—its gleaming, all-powerful official self and its hidden B-side of hunger, flesh, and violence. “We survive, in the confusion / of a life reborn beyond reason,” he wrote in his Roman poems. So I’m not surprised when I see the shift in atmosphere at St. Peter’s Square—from the joyous celebration of Easter to the solemn mourning of the Pope’s death. Overnight, the mood transforms. Banners give way to black-draped balconies, and the square fills with trampled tulips. Soon enough, Rome’s most delightful cynicism emerges: “Morto un papa se ne fa un altro”—the phrase is tossed around with familiar ease, meaning “One pope dies, another is made.” It’s a pithy expression of Italy’s fatalistic attitude toward change, loss, and the inevitable continuity of institutions. Since Saint Peter in 33 a.c. there have been 266 Popes in Rome, so the expression is fitting. Time and tradition march forward, indifferent to individual fate.Officials Im Gay And I Have A Gun Circle Shirt
In Saint Peter’s Square, the worshippers are now chasing down wagons hurriedly carting away the tulips and lilies from Easter, stealing flowers as if to hold onto something fleeting; on the radio show La Zanzara the viral TikToker Bombolino pushes the conspiracy theory claiming the Pope has been dead since February, and as the Conclave approaches, Italy is frustrated by the fact that wagering on the papal election is illegal. We too wish we could join the “toto-Papa” market, as it has already driven over $4.5 million in bets on platforms like Polymarket. Online, a flood of posts portray Vance as a Neapolitan jinxer, complete with red horns to ward off bad luck—a surreal, Pasolinian fusion of sacred and profane that would have made him smile.
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