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“Not taking action also implies that you are willing to do business with an intermediary who does business with these suppliers — that in itself puts you at risk.” The nature of fashion supply chains makes it difficult to say for certain whether these workers had a direct hand in each brand’s finished products. In an ideal world, Transparentem says brands would act to remediate regardless. Stauss points to German outerwear brand Ortovox as an example of a brand that took part in multiple working groups focused on this issue, despite finding no definitive connection between the suppliers accused of worker exploitation and its finished products. Another brand told Transparentem it had no connection to the suppliers, and declined to engage, only to find out months later that it was connected and needed to take action. Alongside Patagonia and Ortovox, the working groups set up by brands to incentivise suppliers include those of Adidas, Amer Sports, Cotopaxi, Lacoste, Lululemon, Nike, Patagonia, Pentland, Puma, REI, Sitka and YKK.Pittsburgh Steelers Autism Accept Understand Love Diamond Heart Shirt
In September 2024, the Fair Labour Association (FLA) and the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) arranged for more than 50 brands to sign a joint letter addressed to the Taiwanese government, which they sent and followed up individually, hoping to make it harder to ignore. At the same time, Transparentem organised another letter, including more than 20 individuals alongside local and international civil society organisations. Similar letters were sent to key suppliers. “Some suppliers will have received this letter three or four times, which really drove the message home,” says Nguyen. In December, 20 of the brand signatories headed to Taiwan to meet with external stakeholders, the Taiwan Textile Federation and government officials from the Ministry of Labour to push the issue further. But legal reforms are still a way off.
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