Proud Member Of Antifa Chapter 86 47 Trump Shirt
In 2012, Patagonia rolled out its supply chain monitoring programme from Tier 1 (direct suppliers, such as finished garment manufacturers) to Tier 2 (indirect suppliers, such as spinners, weavers and printers). It quickly started to see red flags across several of its key sourcing markets. “We saw issues like curfews, passport retention, forced saving schemes and recruitment fees, which didn’t sit well,” says Wendy Savage, Patagonia’s senior director of social impact and transparency. “That’s what started it all. We compared the results country to country, which is what led us to hone in on Taiwan. That’s where most of the red flags to do with migrant workers were present.” Patagonia didn’t have a comprehensive set of migrant worker employment standards, so its social impact team spent over a year working with NGOs to develop one. It started with an in-person conference in Taipei. “We invited our suppliers and announced that we would eliminate fees for migrant workers,” says Patagonia social impact director Thuy Nguyen. “That was quite a shock to them, because the practice is commonplace in Taiwan and it’s entirely legal for workers to pay for their jobs. So we’re asking our suppliers to go above and beyond legal compliance. As a result, there was a long period of training and education, because it wasn’t clear to suppliers why they had to be responsible for those fees. It also took us engaging with the Taiwanese government and the Ministry of Labour, to give suppliers different options for hiring, including eliminating the labour brokers that were facilitating these fees.”Proud Member Of Antifa Chapter 86 47 Trump Shirt
In 2015, Patagonia was struggling to get other brands on board. It decided to raise public awareness of the issue and reached out to The Atlantic to write a story about its efforts, giving the magazine access to its audit records and the problems it was dealing with. Soon, the emails from other brands began pouring in. Still, it was only scratching the surface. “By 2017, we weren’t seeing the level of impact we wanted,” says Nguyen. “Fees had not been eliminated, although there were improvements in other areas that required less financial investment. So we took a more aggressive approach. CEO buy-in was critical to this, because we needed to hire additional staff around the world to support this work, and we needed more budget to pay for audits so the cost of an audit didn’t stop suppliers getting involved.”
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