Rangers Igor Shesterkin Happy Thanksgiving Premium Shirt
Become a Vogue Business Member to receive unlimited access to Member-only reporting and insights, our Beauty and TikTok Trend Trackers, Member-only newsletters and exclusive event invitations. Dutch couturier Iris van Herpen is no stranger to material innovation. Over the years, she has presented couture collections featuring dresses made of banana leaf and cocoa beans, while she was one of the first designers to experiment with 3D printing. The collection she just showed, titled Sympoiesis, features a series of dresses made of alternative fibres, including a “living dress” made of 125 million bioluminescent algae. There are also two wedding dresses, one of which is constructed from a man-made bio-based protein by Spiber, a company with big ambitions to curb the fashion industry’s impact.Rangers Igor Shesterkin Happy Thanksgiving Premium Shirt
The Japanese biotechnology firm was founded in 2007 by Kazuhide Sekiyama and Junichi Sugahara, after they managed to successfully grow spider silk in a lab at Keio University. Today, it specialises in Brewed Protein™, a fibre made from fermented sugarcane, which the company says is biodegradable and recyclable because it can be broken down into nutrients and reused as feedstock for the production of new protein through the fermentation process. The broader uptake of biomaterials has been held back by challenges including higher costs, longer lead times and a lack of accessibility. Over the years, Spiber has collaborated with fashion brands including Burberry, The North Face and Sacai, but it hasn’t been immune to these challenges, nor the trend of material innovators getting stuck in the pilot phase. When Burberry used Brewed Protein™ in a scarf last October, it had to be blended with 62 per cent wool and 8 per cent cashmere. More than 15 years in, Spiber is only just getting ready to take Brewed Protein™ out of the lab and into the mass market. In 2022, the company began operations at the world’s first commercial protein polymer production plant in Thailand, and last year it established its first overseas branch, Spiber Europe, to accelerate business development and sales in the region.
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