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With sales decreasing, companies are seeking to protect margins without compromising the future. That’s the mindset of many luxury companies, which are often family led. “For us, it’s key to continue to invest in our networks behind the brands because we want to make sure that we exit this downturn cycle very strongly and [are] ready when demand bounces back,” said LVMH’s Cabanis. “So it’s all a matter of balance between adjusting to the current context and ensuring that we keep investing in our long term.” Rambourg says Kering and Burberry, on the other hand, are likely to be cutting — not just containing — costs. Kering sales dropped 14 per cent in Q1, with Gucci down 25 per cent. “Kering is under pressure because a lot of their assets are not doing well. They have Valentino at some stage that they have to bring forward,” says Rambourg. (Kering will need approximately €4 billion to exercise its option to acquire Valentino from Mayhoola starting in 2026, Solca noted.) “The reason they built up beauty is to eventually take back the Gucci licence from Coty. That hasn’t happened and that won’t come for free.” Deputy CEO Francesca Bellettini talked about the creative transition at Gucci and Balenciaga during the group’s earnings call.Nice If You See Me Talking To Myself Just Move Along Im Self Employed Were Having A Staff Meeting Shirt
Kering is “working not only to stabilise, but to decrease OPEX [or operating expenses including rent, inventory costs and marketing] for the full year,” its CFO Armelle Poulou said during Kering’s earnings call on 23 April. The group closed 25 directly operated stores in the first quarter, including 10 Gucci stores. Kering deputy CEO Francesca Bellettini stressed a focus on better allocation and return on investment (ROI) when it comes to marketing and communication. The group still has its eye on the long term. “The areas that we tend to touch last are all the areas that are related to consumer experience, consumer activation and building an immediate return for the brand and at the same time something that is going to be valuable for the future,” she added. For example, Gucci’s exhibition in Shanghai and an event during Salone del Mobile — both celebrating the house’s Bamboo bag — were not cancelled, but were controlled in terms of cost. “Everything else that is not necessary — and everybody has a ‘nice to have’ — is of course carefully monitored and cut.”
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