Nurse Sometimes I Just Be Farting Shirt
Longstanding relationships like this are foundational to traceability, says Orlagh McCloskey, co-founder and creative director of London-based womenswear brand Rixo, which just celebrated its 10-year anniversary. Rixo says it is currently working with suppliers to digitize its traceability data and certificates, moving from Excel spreadsheets to the Intertek and Trace For Good systems. Having a proven track record and consistent orders helps to get suppliers on board with these changes, McCloskey explains. “We have only worked with one supplier since we started the brand, and I actually worked inside their company for a bit. When you’re actually inside the factory, you can see how damaging it is if brands make fickle decisions, and how much that can impact waste. So having visibility of production has been a priority for us.”Nurse Sometimes I Just Be Farting Shirt
Minimizing waste is one of the Rixo’s priorities, adds McCloskey, and it’s a prime example of how close collaboration with suppliers — enabled by traceability — can accelerate other goals. For the most part, Rixo uses digital printing to reduce its environmental impact, but sometimes, such as on its bias-cut scarves, it has to use placement printing. Having a direct relationship with the supplier allowed McCloskey to tweak her design and length of the scarves to cut wastage, something that would have been lost in translation. “You need that visibility and flexibility with your suppliers to work on solutions together.” Many natural fibers are sourced through commodity supply chains, where aggregators and auctions make it difficult to trace fibers back to their farms. “Often, fiber from multiple farms gets mixed into one yarn for logistical and financial reasons, so the best option we have found is buying through certifications,” says former Mother of Pearl creative director Amy Powney, who launched affordable luxury label Akyn earlier this year with a limited fiber basket. “This is still complex though, and we’ve had firsthand experience of certification rules not being adhered to.”
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