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London-based designer Sinéad O’Dwyer is known for her neon, often contrasting colour palettes. But for AW25, she showed a much darker collection, featuring lots of black. It was inspired by the photography of O’Dwyer’s wife Ottilie Landmark, but there was also a commercial consideration. “I was thinking about what I needed in my wardrobe; more dark, easy-to-care for pieces,” O’Dwyer says. So it’s also a commercial play. Black is the most reliable colour when it comes to sell-through, particularly in the winter months, says Net-a-Porter fashion director Kay Barron. And amid continued economic challenges, brands are playing it safe. “[Black] is a consistent bestseller in most categories,” says Lisa Aiken, executive fashion, beauty and lifestyle director across Condé Nast titles, formerly fashion and buying director of Net-a-Porter and Moda Operandi. “As a result, black is almost always offered as a colour option, and core collections often feature bestsellers in black, too. We see a quieter aesthetic winning with consumers right now, so dark and neutral palettes have been a consistent theme throughout AW25. It’s the idea of investing in timeless luxury.” Dior featured a dark palette this season, from eveningwear to casual separates, the collection was dominated by black looks.Officials Traumatized By My Dad Not Being There And By My Mom Being There Shirt
Retail intelligence firm EDITED is already seeing high street retailers embrace darker palettes for SS25 versus SS24. At Mango, women’s black apparel arrivals are up 20 per cent this season, while black womenswear is also up 12 per cent at Revolve and 27 per cent at Abercrombie & Fitch, compared with this time last year. “For SS25, tops are the dominant black product and dresses continue to show the strongest growth. T-shirts remain essential, and we’re seeing a notable increase in black cardigans (arrivals up 18 per cent so far for SS25),” says Krista Corrigan, retail analyst at EDITED. Satin and lace are also key black fabric trends, she notes. EDITED expects the popularity of darker tones to rise further as cultural trends lean towards gothic horror. “Looking ahead, upcoming releases like Wednesday 2, M3GAN 2.0 and Frankenstein in 2025 will reinforce black’s prominence in autumn assortments,” Corrigan adds.
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