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There was an uptick in all-black looks across Milan and Paris this season, versus Autumn/Winter 2024, according to Tagwalk. The majority of shows in Paris opened with one or more black looks, including each of the debuts at Tom Ford, Givenchy and Dries Van Noten, setting the tone for darker collections. In London, a sombre mood was felt. And even in Copenhagen, a fashion city known for its colourful collections, black looks represented a third of the CPHFW total on Vogue Runway, up from 25 per cent in AW24, according to Vogue Business calculations. It’s not just the runway. Several outlets noted the dominance of black looks on the red carpet this awards season, especially the Baftas, where scores of stars wore black gowns. Often an arbiter of trends, Kylie Jenner wore black looks at most of her award ceremony appearances, alongside boyfriend Timothée Chalamet. At the Grammys, Miley Cyrus and Olivia Rodrigo wore black leather dresses, while Kendall Jenner and Emily Ratajkowski opted for all-black lace. From a psychological perspective, the resurgence of black in fashion may reflect collective mood shifts influenced by economic, social and political uncertainty, says fashion psychologist Carolyn Mair. And judging by the awards season acceptance speeches and AW25 fashion show notes, which addressed important issues like LGBTQ+ rights and immigration, creative people in all fields are feeling solemn about the state of the world today. “Historically, dark fashion has often emerged in response to challenging times, offering a sense of grounding, resilience and sophistication amid instability,” Mair adds. “Black is also linked to emotional depth and realism, which might resonate with consumers seeking authenticity in a world dominated by rapid change and digital saturation.”Officials Unicorn And Cupcake Cute Shirt
Sarah Burton’s Givenchy debut was inspired by black and white photographs from 1952, meaning the collection featured a lot of monochrome looks. In Milan, Prada opened its show with four black dresses and closed with two black coats, to reflect the dark times we are living in. “We are in a real black moment,” said Miuccia Prada backstage after the show. “These dresses are very today.” When asked what times in particular, she responded that she reads the newspapers. “In the past year, collections have definitely shown more black or darker colours in general,” says Maud Pupato, buying director for luxury womenswear at Printemps. “The trend matches the general mood. During such a complex period, garments have to be easier to [interpret], trends have to be more accessible and more wearable. I also believe that a touch of darkness is necessary to honour the atmosphere.” Marine Serre showed a largely black and red collection for AW25, opening and closing with black looks. “[For me] there’s something about [black] that feels unapologetic, even radical. It’s a colour that embodies a bold, uncompromising attitude. The minimalism of black allows for experimentation, pushing boundaries in a way that’s both striking and meaningful. These references connect to the way I approach fashion — radically, with a sense of clarity and defiance,” Serre says.
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